EC-Rider Travels

We had an early start and after another delicious breakfast we bid a sad farewell to Casa Palopo, our very lovely hotel on lake Atitlán. We drove back up the mountain and wound our way around the central highland region seeing the local people going about their daily lives. All the women in their stunning colourful skirts and tops of different designs according to the communities they come from.

It is staggering how, despite access to TV and the internet, western fashion has not infiltrated these local people. Fito explained however, that with the considerable time and cost of making these wonderful fabrics, there is a move to western wear which is very sad.

After about an hour and a half we reached the village of Chichicastenango to visit its renowned market. The colours were extraordinary and just a joy to behold. More delicious looking fruit and vegetables all fresh from the surrounding farms and so beautifully displayed. Once again there was not much you could not get in this market, which takes place twice a week. The market also acts as an important time of social interaction and and the relaying of information from the powers that be to the local communities. Market traders would be travelling into town, with their wares on pick-up trucks and chicken buses. They do not have to pay to sell in the market, unless they have a permanent stand in a building. Much of the fruit and vegetables are sold together in one colourful covered market. Stunning.

There are two churches in the main square both built on Maya foundations, the Parish Church of St Thomas and the Calvary Church. The former, built in 1540, is a traditional Catholic Church, which holds mass every day, however, following mass the church is open for prayer either to the Catholic saints or the Maya gods. They have twelve Maya alters going up the central aisle, four for the Sun, representing life; four for the rain representing the harvest and four for the moon representing the forefathers. The church was full of people praying to saints or to their Maya gods. On the steps outside there were people performing rituals and burning incense and leaving gifts to their gods, often a combination of Catholic and Maya. The Catholic and Maya beliefs are so totally integrated here they barely distinguish between the two.

The Calvary church, built in the 18 century on the other side of the square is plainer and almost exclusively for Maya prayer even though the central alter is a reclining figure of Christ in a glass coffin. There was a Maya holy/wise-man called an Ajki praying with a family behind the alter over the figure of Christ. This is the only church where an Ajki is able to welcome those who wish to seek his council and wisdom. Mass is held in the Calvary church once a year at Easter.

There were so many wonderful things in this market we could have come home with baskets full, luckily time ran out and we had to head to the airport. We arrived nice and early at Guatemala airport and flew the short 50 minute flight to Flores. Once again we were met by a representative from ViaVentures and driven to the very lovely looking hotel, La Lancha tucked into the rainforest on the bank of Lake Petén Itza. Once again Lottie and I have a gorgeous room, with two interconnected bedrooms – very spoiling.