Monday 22 May – Alphonse Islands

Once again, almost 36 hours later, we arrived right on schedule in the Alphonse islands, just as the sun was rising. Discovered by the Portuguese in the 16 Century, it comprises three islands. Alphonse, Bijoutier and St François. Alphonse itself is developed with a luxury hotel, but nearby, there is uninhabited St. François which is where we were heading. It is about 2km away from Alphonse but separated by a deep channel, known as the Canal du Mort owing to the number of ships wrecked there. Fortunately under Capt George’s command we made it through and arrived at the paradise atoll where we could see nothing but beautiful white sands, clear water and masses of birds.

The expedition team headed ashore to scout out a landing spot and we followed soon after. The tide was already going out, so time was tight as we headed off on our walk with Sue.

Alphonse

We started along the outer beach, before cutting through to a beautiful lagoon. There were birds everywhere, including a new favourite, the delicate white fairy terns which were sitting in pairs in the trees and bushes. There were also striated and grey herons, some with their young whilst over head swooped frigatebirds, greater crested terns and black-naped terns. The sand was covered with holes made by horned ghost crabs which, ran between our toes.

Fairly terns
Frigate bird
Grey heron
Ghost crab
Herons on duty

Around the lagoon were a number of grey herons, standing like soldiers, waiting for fish to venture within striking distance. We also spotted praying mantises and dewdrop and jumping spiders. Many of the plants were in flower and young red mangroves, still only knee-high, were growing around the lagoon. There are seven species of mangrove, some getting rid of salt and some blocking salt, both essential for protecting the young fish and crabs.

Praying mantis
Striated Heron
Greater Crested Tern

The tide was disappearing faster than anticipated, so it was a bit of a race back to the zodiacs, now some way out to sea, and a paddle through the warm water before being skilfully driven by Grant through the reef back to the boat.

Grant

It was an afternoon at sea, during which we were advised to pack as tomorrow is apparently a busy day, but deck 6 was calling, and Lucinda and I retired up there for a happy afternoon.

Tonight was the Captain’s Farewell Cocktail Party and everyone, dressed in their ‘finest’, met in the Lounge, where Captain George made a toast and thanked his amazing staff. The crew then sang some hilarious songs of ‘adieu’ before we all headed down to the Restaurant for the Farewell Dinner, which was once again, outstanding. During dinner, we suddenly discovered it was Flavia’s birthday, and a whisper in Johnny’s ear resulted in a beautiful cake, candles and a full chorus from the waiters.

Happy birthday Flavia

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