We all decided to have a bit of a down day today, but headed in to town, early afternoon for a bit of shopping. I discovered a wonderful local market selling just about everything and full of locals rather then tourists. Beyond this, are three roads of pretty streets of old yellow houses which have been turned into shops selling either leather, silk/cashmere (fake or otherwise) or tailors. Pretty well all of them sell exactly the same things as the last and though not too aggressive, are very keen to sell to you. Nothing has a price-tag, so they take a good look at you and think of a number, you are expected to haggle for everything – I am not very good at that! There is so much talent and often beautiful things here, but fashion is somewhat lacking. Nevertheless, I found myself succumbing again to having a pair of crazy green shoes made ….. in four hours!
found another back ally where there was a lovely shop selling the most beautiful things made by disabled people, or differently abled, as they quite rightly called them. The craftsmen were all working in a tiny area at the back of the shop, sitting at/on workbenches. One making ceramics, one weaving and my friend Tam who was making jewellery. Tam was deaf and mute, which meant he never went to school. The project scooped him up and taught him to be a silver smith and to sign, read and write. Sweet Ni, who ran the shop, had dwarfism and was the most outstanding saleswoman, She had taught herself to sign and also the others in the workshop, so they could communicate with Tam. She told me that Tam had been so successful in his work, he had been able to afford to build his own house. Great story and some really lovely things. http://www.reachingoutvietnam.com
Tourism has certainly returned to Vietnam, it is teaming with people, including huge numbers of Chinese moving in great waves, quite often looking rather glum sitting in long snakes of bicycle rickshaws, who also share these tiny streets. There are lots and lots of young, having the best time. I am sure it is a great place for those on their (first) gap year, it is so inexpensive, everything is on offer and there does not seem to be a policeman in sight!
In the evening, five of us had signed up to do a cooking class …. and being such a keen cook, this obviously include me. Adorable Jam was our teacher (looked about twelve!) and took us up to her strip of a kitchen with two little camping stoves, with three gas rings and four very dented saucepans, five chopping boards and five nice sharp knives. She was incredibly professional and in an hour and a half she had guided us through making a five course dinner! Fresh vegetable spring rolls, yummy beef, noodle and herb soup, banana flower and green papaya salad, aubergine and noodle salad and for pudding mango/coconut sticky rice, which we then happily ate. It was delicious and although it was all done in a higgledy piggledy order, so not sure I could replicate, we learnt some really interesting things, particularly about using herbs and spices. I think they are more potent than ours, but it is amazing the difference they make. It was fun.
When I returned to the hotel, my shoes and palazzo pants had been delivered and fitted like gloves. What a service.
EC-Rider Travels 
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