Oh my goodness I was sad to leave Rajakkad Estate, it really is a very special place. This morning I woke to the most beautiful singing from the temple in the village below and again wonderful birdsong. I walked out of my bedroom window into the forest where there are small clearings with tables and chairs. Fruit and yoghurt soon arrived together with Arun’s raisins. The coffee here is sensational and made with milk instead of water – yum! Everyone was there to see me off and after a sad farewell, Arun and I headed off down the hill.


We went through the village, where many of the staff come from, including the very accomplished cook, who was taught by the hotel and has never had any training.


It was a four hour drive across the Western Ghats, into Kerala, a different state with a different language. Rather like Australia there appears to be quite a level of rivalry between the five states of Southern India and even more so between North and South India.

It was a beautiful drive through many villages, all full of life being a Sunday and much temple activity. We went past one house with blaring music, apparently a house warming party, to which everyone is invited. We saw coffee farms and coconut plantations and despite being a Sunday there were lines of ladies bent double working in the fields ….. with a men looking on!


As we drove over the summit of the mountain, through the Kerala ‘Checkpoint’, we entered a very different world. Suddenly a lush green horizon of rolling tea plantations and cardamom. Roads are superior, and everyone perhaps a little more safely conscious, even wearing motorbike helmets. The tourist/western influence is much more apparent with lots of girls in western clothes and boys in jeans – somehow feeling less authentic than Tamil Nadu – but perhaps it is too soon to judge.

Arun, who has never once looked at a SatNav, delivered me to the Windermere Estate. So named as it is apparently reminiscent of the Lake District – I am not sure they have been there! It is not quite like last night, with all eighteen rooms fully occupied and our rooms unfortunately overlooking a building site! Almost everyone here is English, which is a bit of a culture shock as I realise, I have barely seen a Westerner since I landed in India. Indeed in most places, there has been more curiosity about me than me about them! I have never been asked to be in so many photos … my worst as you know!
Analida arrived this evening from Delhi. Just so lovely to see her but she had had a crazy long day and needed an early night. So after just a bit of a chat I went to supper with my IPad. I couldn’t help eavesdropping on two handsome guys on the next door table talking about theatre and film in London and, feeling a little starved of this (not to mention handsome guys), rudely interrupted their conversation. They were completely charming, one in film, the other marketing and so nice to have a bit of a catchup on what I have been missing in London plus the Oscars tonight.
Early bird walk in the morning so night night…. 😴

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