EC-Rider Travels

Bit of an early start with the crows in full voice this morning. Interestingly, despite being by the sea, there appear to be no seagulls, but plenty of rooks n crows. I had breakfast with my friend Mr chipmunk who I feel is a regular at La Villa’s breakfast table. Rebecca and Arun arrived, a little bleary eyed as the festival procession had almost passed through their bedrooms – I was rather jealous!

We left Pondicherry heading south west, following all the children going to school …. my record was eight in a Tuktuk and five on a motorbike. You cannot beleive how / what they carry on a motorbike behind or in front of them – driving five or six deep and quite often going the wrong way. People cross the road at any time or jump off a bus at any point – it is mayhem, but somehow works. The poverty of some is horrifying to the extent of people standing on the back of a bin truck looking for scraps; having said that, there is very much less begging than I remember from the north.

At same time, those who have homes take great pride in them with the ladies welcoming visitors with a kolam – a white chalk pattern on their front door step. They are a work of art, done free-hand as a ritual, first thing every morning after sweeping the doorstep – getting more elaborate on high days and holidays.

As we went further into the country the poverty was more apparent, with ladies washing themselves and their clothes in the most filthy algae/rubbish filled water – how can they always look so immaculate? There were men sitting under trees watching their cattle and women out in the field replanting the rice. We stopped in a village to see a family making coir rope from coconut husks. A lovely older lady spinning a wheel and then three people spinning the dried coconut fibre. Amazing to see and the result – unbelievably strong! I was briefly recruited as part of the team, but soon ‘let go’!

The road was pretty horrendous with never more than a km or two without suddenly coming to an end or being under construction. Arun is a fantastic driver but the poor cars get quite a workout. After a couple of hours we arrived at Chidambaram Nataraja Temple in the district of Chettinadu, A wealthy district who made their money from the spice trade. Although we did not see them, there are apparently elaborate houses made of teak wood (from Burma) and granite, with terracotta tiles and sometimes up to 100 rooms with ceramic tile floors. Many of these are now hotels. Chettinadu has a thriving tile making and weaving industry and renowned for its cuisine. Their wealth, however is by no means always apparent.

Dating back to the 10th century Chidambaram Nataraja Temple, is dedicated to Nataraja, the form of Shiva as the lord of dance. High walls surround the 55 acre temple and there are four magnificent gopura (gate towers).

We first went to the central shrine, where Shiva is represented as the phallic Lingam Shiva symbolising fertility. Rebecca’s timing was perfect as we arrived just as the Arthi was commencing. This special ceremony takes place two to three times in the morning, and again later in the afternoon. The deity is bathed in milk by the Brahmin priests, clarified butter lamps are then lit and bells ring and as the lamps are shown to the God (the Arthi), prayers reach a crescendo. There were hundreds of men, women and children all jostling to get closer to the shrine. It was a privilege to witness such devotion of those who had come to worship, many of them from out of town, on a pilgrimage to come to this particularly important temple and at this time of Maasi Masam. Men wear special long lungi for the temple called a Thoti, with a patterned boarder changing colours. according to which deity they are worshiping.

We then moved round to the left and saw the inner sanctum of the temple where Shiva is represented as Nataraja, the dancing Shiva, Again the lamps were lit and shown to the God, followed by the most amazing display of worship. The temple wall carvings display the 108 karanas postures which are the foundation of an Indian classical dance, Bharatanatyam, which apparently I am going to see this evening!

We continued on our way to Gaṅgaikoṇḍa Chōḻapuram, the most incredible granite temple, again to Shiva. This was built a little later in 1035 by second Chola king. Rajendra Chola, who was trying to outdo his father Rajaraja Chola, but at the last minute decided not to steel his glory. All the same it is pretty glorious, guarded by the most gorgeous huge Nandi bull.

Just as we were leaving we met the most lovely group of ladies, in identical purple and blue saris. It transpired that they were lady police officers celebrating International Women’s Day, which seems to be quite a thing here. A photo with me had to be taken, Rebecca introducing me as Princess Diana’s sister! The girls explained they were from an all women’s police station, which have become increasingly common in India.

Rebecca and I had lunch in the most hysterical ‘Heritage eco hotel’ – Indeco Swamimalai – we started with a bright pink rose milk, followed by a thali meals (tasting plate) apparently as mild as can be but quite hot enough for me. There was a series of wonderful old cars, being proudly shown off in the dust and the most incredible old printing press from Fleet Street!

We drove into Kumbakonam and saw the Mahamakam temple tank – one of the biggest in Tamil Nadu with shrines around. It is the tank for the Kumbeshwara temple dedicated to Shiva, outside which we saw the most incredible chariots being dismantled after yesterday’s festivities.

A few hundred metres away you come to the Sarangapani Temple, the largest Vishnu temple in Kumbakonam with an eleven tiered temple tower and a height of 173 ft (53 m).

The last temple of the day was the Airavatesvara Temple at Darasuram dedicated to Lord Shiva. Built by Rajaraja II (1143-1173), it is one of the three Chola temples deemed UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Despite being smaller than the others, it has the most amazingly detailed carvings, particularly on the pillars of the mandapa (hall) which are carved with the tiniest figures. The front mandapa is designed like a chariot with wheels. Most of the large gopura has been destroyed, but the smaller gopura inside the temple remains completely preserved, showing the original grandeur of the temple and the remarkable artistic/architectural/sculptural abilities of the Cholas.

We reached Thanjavur (formerly Tanjore) and I was delivered to the rather lovely looking Svatma Hotel and after a warm welcome by gorgeous girls in the most beautiful saris, of flowers around my wrist and sandalwood on the back of my hands, I was shown a lovely room and informed of the International Women’s Day celebrations…. traditional dance and a fashion show. Right up my street, luckily, as I was certainly very much expected to be there. It was to start in half an hour so I had a quick shower and returned to be quickly ushered into the room as the VIP was about to arrive. There were many chairs but sadly only about ten other people so I thought I would sit up at the front to be encouraging and fear I sat in the VIPs chair! Anyway she at last arrived and sat down next to me. A charming professor from the local Government College where she had taught commerce for the last 25 years. Unaware that she was the Guest of Honour, until the moment she arrived, and that she was expected to speak, she eventually took to the stage and started talking …… about me! ….. and my travels as the independent woman. I don’t think the ten people, could be have been less interested, but she was very articulate and it is all on camera so who knows….!

This was followed by the most amazing but long, long dance display, which again ‘the ten’ were not hugely interested in and were on their phones (grrr!). So unfair on the young dancers who were dancing their socks (or bells) off relating terrible stories of love and drama …. but long ones! How they remembered it all or had the stamina, I don’t know.

We then had the fashion show of six young girls, first in variations of saris and then in their choice (I think) of western clothes! Shoes obviously had been borrowed and were several sizes too big and perhaps rather higher than they were used to! Lots of photos then had to be taken of me with the charming VIP and the dancers (very excited to be told by Rebecca, I had worked at The Royal Ballet School!) and we sat down to a ‘lovely’ buffet together!