EC-Rider Travels

Lovely Justinna took me to the airport, where I arrived in good time as I was a little concerned about the extra luggage I had. I had been warned how very strict Indian airlines were, so I spent some time this morning squeezing everything into my big suitcase to ensure Mary (my rather over-sized cabin bag) was as light as possible – in theory 7kg – which is tricky as she weighs 4.5kg empty! Needless to say she was not even weighed! Air IndiGo is definitely a no-frills airline and it was a pretty bumpy ride with a lot of very loudly snoring Indians and a very abrupt landing!

Having spent days and weeks getting my Indian Visa (and Sarah Dehn too), and being told that it was better/quicker to have a visa in ones passport rather than an e-visa, it seems things have changed and the opposite is true. However there were not too many people so it did not take long, but did involve the Spanish Inquisition as I was asked who I was staying with, what they did, could they see my ticket out etc. Not a lot of smiling or making you feel too welcome! Still I ‘passed’ and went to collect my suitcase, which was the very last one off – because it was so heavy no doubt! After a bit more suitcase scanning I emerged and was met by Mariam’s driver.

Goodness, it was quite a contrast from Singapore as Dhananjayan drove me through the city! As we know, cleanliness and rule following are not India’s USP! You are immediately hit by the noise, dirt, smell, motorbikes everywhere, horns blaring and endless half-finished roads and buildings. But it was rather wonderful to be back in the chaos and craziness that typifies this extraordinary place. And of course you have the colour, the ladies in their beautiful saris sitting side-saddle on the back of scooters, barely a single one in western dress.

After about 45 mins (I was told twenty!), we reached Mariam and Rams house . Needless to say, it is utterly beautiful and as elegant as she is. Many lovely people running around everywhere and it is all beyond spoiling. So lovely to see Mariam, a generous donor to The Royal Ballet School who sponsored naughty Amir Shah, the school’s first Indian student. We chatted for the rest of the afternoon and before I knew it Mariam had my days with her all filled with exciting plans, including spending tomorrow with a pink trouser-wearing artist cousin of hers who had kindly offered to show me Chennai (Madras) – can’t wait.

I suddenly heard the most extraordinary noise which sounded like the Macaws in the Peruvian Amazon and sure enough that is exactly what it was. There are thirty or so of them in an aviary in the garden also several cockatoos and other parrots not to mention seven dogs also in the small back yard! I had no idea she was such an animal lover and apparently there are more to meet in Ooty, where we go on Wednesday.

In the evening a charming ballet and opera loving couple, KK and Sares, came to dinner. We had the most delicious pancakes (paratha) with all sorts of things to scoop up into them – apparently not at all spicy – but I thought quite! Everything is eaten in your fingers which is a bit of a tester…. but I am trying everything! Quite tired now!